Quick disclaimer: I have literally no relationship with any of the companies or manufacturers I am going to mention in this article. Nobody knows who the fuck I am, I’m just a random shittalker on the computer.
The main reason I wanted to make this article is because in the past 5 years or so, the retro AR scene has exploded. Several notable influencers (you know the ones) in the online gun sphere have released content regarding rifles like this, which is awesome, but it also drives a certain not-so-cool element. I assembled my first “retro” in about 2016, while I was still a somewhat poor gun store employee and student. My rifle was based on the Model 727, but did not feature a mounted optic or weapon light. This rifle maybe cost me 5 or 600 dollars to make, if I recall correctly.
Recently I have noticed a trend of certain businesses marketing for retro AR parts or outright to-order builds. Let’s take a look at a couple listings.
To make matters worse, the next screenshot is from a video about doing a CAR-15 home build.
In short, any of these listed rifles would cost you near if not more than a premium factory AR such as a KAC SR-15, Noveske Gen 4, or a Geissele Super Duty. It’s important to remember that the rifle we are about to build is inherently a rack-grade milspec M4, with the exception of the upper receiver profile. There is no reason you should think you need to pay this much for this build, and I hate the idea that these companies are making people think this is what they cost. I hold no ill will to anyone at these companies. I’m sure the dudes at Type-A make a great rifle. I have met several of the dudes at Noveske, I appreciate them greatly, and they also make a great rifle. I just cannot find any way to justify these prices aside from “hype.” I’d hate to see people turned away from a fun, historic rifle like this due to hypebeast gatekeeping.
Let’s go over my particular impression build, and I’ll break down the costs and include sources for components as best as I can. I’ll include some substitutions as applicable. Don’t forget – have fun with your build!
Not Clone Correct Bro!
My particular CAR-15 build is based mostly on the rifle as seen in the Black Hawk Down film, with some exceptions. This is because fitting optics such as the Aimpoint Comp M2, PRO and ACO are widely available and are not too expensive. I’d rather leave true vintage optics to people who will care for them appropriately. I will also be using an alternate WML solution since I hate duct tape and janky tape switches. I feel that this setup still captures the “soul” and look of the real McCoy, while keeping it mostly in line with modern standards. Also, fuck it, it looked sweet in the movie – Call it a cope, I don’t care.
UPPER
My upper receiver was purchased assembled with no barrel from Tony’s Customs a little over a year ago. My barrel is a BCM 14.5″ 1:7 SOCOM profile that I cannibalized from a SOPMOD build. Mine features an “F” marked FSB, the most accurate one is the Non-“F” marked one. The main difference is the height of the front sight housing. This could potentially cause issues with zeroing for elevation if you can’t get the front sight on the “F” marked item low enough. If this is an issue, for you, you can replace it with a shorter front sight blade. This barrel has a pinned and welded BCM A2X flash hider to reach non-NFA length. Any 14.5″ Gov profile barrel will have the right look, with a phosphate finish being the most authentic. You could also go for the skinny profile variant if you want.
Handguards are the “skinny” plastic carbine handguards, not the more common “fat” M4 handguards. My BCG is a Noveske-marked Rubber City Armory black nitride BCG. I just like black nitride BCGs, I use them in all my rifles. Use whatever good-quality BCG you prefer here. Again, phosphate finish is the most authentic. A standard charging handle is most appropriate, use something else if you like. A PRI or VLTOR would probably look pretty dope. I’m currently using a BCM Gunfighter. Mounted in the carry handle is an A.R.M.S. # 2 carry handle mount. On that mount is an Aimpoint PRO in a Vortex Tactical 30mm Low Mount. The WML solution is an Impact Weapons Components TMC Scout Light Mount with ring for 1″ lights, bearing a SureFire G2x 600 lumen LED light. For my purposes, this is better in every way than a janky duct tape and barrel band setup for a 60 lumen light, but you may disagree. With the optic and WML mounts, go ahead and get some blue Loctite on all that shit.
LOWER
The lower is extremely simple. Any milspec lower will fit the bill, the only slightly odd part is the Colt FiberLite stock. My build features a reproduction version produced by B5, I promise nobody will notice the difference. Keep the stock A2 pistol grip. Trigger is fair game, I know people get very particular about them. I tend to use enhanced milspec triggers, such as the ALG QMS. My particular lower is from a Colt LE6920 and has the “M4 CARBINE” rollmarks. It’s not accurate, but it says “Colt” on it. For fun, you could use one of the PSA M16A2 marked lowers.
LIST FORM + APPROXIMATE COST
Some of these options may be hard to find our out of stock at the date of publish. We all know how the supply chain for AR parts has been for the past few years. I’ve subbed out some of my specific components for some more convenient ones that achieve the same result. These options are for the least amount of fiddling around with individual small parts.
Ballistic Advantage 14.5″ Government Profile Barrel – $220
(Be sure to select “F” Marked FSB, Handguard Cap, and Delta Ring. There’s contention about the “F” marked FSB vs the unmarked one, long stories short, the “F” will work just fine in most cases, and if there are truly issues zeroing for elevation, you can purchase a shorter sight post. If you want to avoid this altogether, purchase a non-“F” marked FSB. If you want the whole thing to look a bit more authentic, go for a phosphated barrel such as from BCM or a Noveske CHF if you’re really boujee. )
6-Hole “Skinny” Handguard – $40
BCM A2X Extended Flash Hider – $35
Tony’s Customs C7 Upper Receiver – $190
(This will likely be the hardest part to get. This is a very small business, but they are responsive to communication. Send them an email if you have questions concerning availability.)
Aero Precision BCG, Phosphate, No Logo – $145
Aero Precision Charging Handle – $21
Aero Precision M4 “Clone” Complete Lower Receiver – $255
(This lower omits the Aero logo on the right side of the magwell, and has faux Government Property markings. It says “M4 Carbine” on the left side.)
B5 Reproduction CAR-15 Stock – $42
APPROXIMATE BASE RIFLE COST – $910
You could do this cheaper if you really needed to, I only listed parts I have experience with. If you’re comfortable sourcing all your stuff from PSA, go ahead.
ACCESSORIES
A.R.M.S. #2 M16 Scope Mount – $107
Aimpoint PRO – $400(This can be found on any number of sites, searching around may save you a few bucks.)
IWC Light Mount 1″ Ring – $60
Surefire G2X Light – $90
If you’re averse to assembling your own rifle, or simply would rather trust it to a manufacturer, PSA now offers a 723 style carbine through their H&R line, fully assembled, for $1100. This one does feature a pencil-profile barrel.
“Hey, who’s hungry?”
Alright, now that all the technical bullshit is done, and you have a CAR-15 of your own, it’s about time we talk about shooting the fucking thing! Come back soon, in part 3 Mark and I will give you some insight on how this certified hood classic worked out at LMS Defense’s Practical Carbine course, where we took the good ol’ CAR-15 from muzzle shots out to 600yds and everywhere in between.
Till next time,
-Duke
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